Tengu 4530HS / 550kV (12-14S)

Hand-wound EGODRIFT Tengu 4530HS/550kV brushless motor for 700-800mm class helicopters, such as the XLPower Specter & Protos, SAB Goblin 700-770, Quest Impaction, Align T-Rex 700-800, Mikado Logo 700, or Gaui 700.

Our 4530HS series was developed to bring you the perfect balance of power and flight time and is setting new standards with its ultra-low operating temperature. This motor is the best choice for most pilots and setups in the 700 class, offering flight time gains of around 20% (on average) versus competing motor options.

Please select the correct external shaft length below:
35mm fits XLPower, SAB Goblin and SoXos models.
55mm fits Align, Mikado and Gaui models.

Note: The longer shaft with 55mm (exterior) length is also available as spare part.
$349.99
SKU: tengu-4530hs-550
In stock

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$349.99
Details

EGODRIFT Tengu high-performance brushless motor for RC Heli are the result of one year of development and testing. The 4530HS Tengu comes with a kV rating of 550kV and fits all 700-800mm class helicopters, such as the XLPower Specter 700 & Protos 700, SAB Goblin 700-770, Quest Impaction, Align T-Rex 700-800, Mikado 700 or Gaui 700 (and various other models).

All CNC parts are processed in our EGODRIFT factory on our Japanese Tsugami precision CNC machines for the utmost in precision and quality. We apply the same high standards to all other components used in the making of this motor, so it features EZO bearings, a custom made stator and special high temperature copper wire.

External length of the shaft: 35mm or 55mm (please choose)

Specifications
  • Manufacturer: EGODRIFT
  • Stator size: 4530
  • Motor configuration: 12N10P
  • Motor weight: 532g (18.77oz)
  • Wire colour: Copper
  • Motor wire type: High temperature copper wire
  • Motor wire: 1.4mm
  • Motor kV: 550 kV
  • Motor shaft: Hardened Steel
  • Shaft diameter: 6.0 mm
  • Mounting hole pattern: 4xM4(30)
  • Laser Design: EGODRIFT Stickerbomb
  • LiPo cells: 12S, 14S
  • Stator diameter: 45 mm
  • Stator height: 30 mm
  • Stator lamination: 0.15 mm (+)
  • Body Length: 60.58mm (2.39 inch)
  • Diameter: 56.40 mm (2.22 inch)
  • Idle current: 4.6A
  • Maximum Current: 135A (Peak: 240A / 2 seconds)
  • Maximum Power: 6250W (12200W / 2 seconds)
  • Connection: Wire / Gold plated plugs
  • Designer: Yutao Zou

What's in the box

  • 1x Tengu 4530HS/550kV motor for 700 sized helicopters
  • 35mm or 55mm exterior length shaft (please choose)
  • 3 x Gold plated connectors, Male
  • 3 x Gold plated connectors, Female
  • 4 x Mounting screws
  • 1 x Bell securing screw
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Recommended ESC & Motor Settings

The following settings have been tested and recommended for Hobbywing ESCS and the Tengu 4530HS/510kV motor by EGODRIFT team pilot Kan Poonnoi:

Reviews
    • Verified Review

    Excellent motor!

    All around excellent motor. Flying on a Protos Max and it provides all the power I could ask for while giving me excellent flight time. All that and comes down cool as a cucumber.

    Review by J. McFarlin

    • Verified Review

    Way more than enough

    The guys from egodrift recommended a 4530 - 550kV for me, and as I thought the HT might be overkill for me (I'm not that much of a pro pilot) - I chose the HS for my Kraken. Still almost too much power for me to handle, but I wouldn't give it back

    Review by Paul

    • Verified Review

    Good, but HT is better

    My 1st Motor was the Tengu 4530- 550HS - it's good but after i flew the 4530-550HT it's just too good flight time on HT 3.30min with hard 3d and with HS flight time is 4min both motor run cool but next time i buy HT for my flying style

    Review by Imran Rahim

You're reviewing: Tengu 4530HS / 550kV (12-14S)

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Product FAQ

Product Questions

What makes HAND-WOUND motors better?

At EGODRIFT we rely on the art of hand-winding motors for every single one of our models (with no exception) for a variety of reasons:

1) Fill grade - packing more copper
While machine winding would certainly be a whole lot faster, cheaper and easier, there are a few technical downsides to using winding machines: The biggest one of them being the achievable fill grade = how much copper (wire) you manage to squeeze into the bell around the stator arms. A winding machine relies on bigger (and static) tolerances to wind the wire lobes around the stator and cannot adjust it's winding routines as good as one of our winding experts can with every lobe. They wrap, pull, push and fit the wires around the stator to manually reduce the empty space between windings to the maximum, thus achieving a higher fill grade in the bell than a machine could. Think of empty space inside a bell and between the stator arms as wasted potential. And for copper on the stators the one thing that holds true is: the more the better.

2) Quality control - Each motor is going through our experts hands
By winding each stator manually, we ensure that all components - the stator itself, as well as the wire, and the finished assembly - is going through the hands of our winding experts for several minutes. Any imperfection in the material or the assembly will immediately be noticed and any products that fail our rigorous standards when it comes to winding our stators can be discarded immediately.

3) True craftsmanship - and not mass production
Our lovely winding ladies have been building motors for us for well over a decade, and we will continue to rely on hand-winding for many years to come. We believe motor winding by hand is an art, and a skill that needs to be preserved. Each one of our motors is a piece of true craftsmanship, not the result of mass production. And we love our staff, and feel it's our responsibility to secure their jobs for the community.

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How to change Tengu motor shafts

Changing or replacing the shafts on our EGODRIFT Tengu motors for rc helis is a fairly easy and straightforward process. Simply follow the steps outlined below or watch the video on our YouTube channel that will demonstrate the process for you.

1) Remove the retainer ring (c-clip) from the shaft
Using a special pair of pliers made to remove c-clips (or any other appropriate tool) and while applying caution not to damage the clip, remove the retainer ring from the shaft. The clip can be found on the bottom of the motor where the shaft portrudes the can/bell.

2) Locate the shaft screws
Two worm screws are holding the shaft (centered) inside the bell. They can be found when looking through the six round cutouts near the top of the motor (where the stickerbomb printed face is). With a solid 2.0 mm hex driver carefully loosen those screws and remove them from the inside of the motor.

3) Remove the shaft
After the retainer ring (c-clip) and the worm screws have been removed, you should be able to slide out the shaft towards the top of the motor. Be careful not to apply too much pressure or force when trying to remove the shaft, not to damage the bearings.

4) Insert the new / replacement shaft
Take the new shaft you want to place in the motor, and insert it the opposite way you removed the old one. Again, please apply caution when routing the shaft through the bearings (or replace those with new ones from the shaft kit in case you ordered a full kit). Make sure to fully insert the shaft into the motor. If done correctly, the holes for the worm screws and the milled ring for the retainer clip should be in the exact same position as before disassembly.

5) Secure the shaft with screws
Carefully insert the worm screws and tighten them alternating in small steps, to ensure the shaft is centered. You can check the correct position by making sure the shaft spins evenly and freely.

6) Re-attach the retainer clip
To finish the assembly, reattach the retainer clip to the milled ring on the shaft near the bottom of the motor. Check that the shaft is centered and does not oscillate.

Done.

Disclaimer: During assembly in the factory, we check the balance of each motor to ensure the shaft is dead centered and the there is no play to either side. We do not take responsibility for any damages resulting from improper replacement of the shafts on our motors without proper balancing.

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Will it fit on a Synergy 696?
As our Tengu motors feature a very slim profile, any model of the 700-800 class (all Tengu 4525 and 4530 HS / HT models) will fit in the body of the Synergy 696.
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what is the difference between the 4530HS and HT? Doesn't the kv change the speed of the motor?
The newly released HT (High Torque) Series offers quite a considerable power increase over the already powerful HS (High Speed) Series motors. This increase does come at the expense of a slight reduction in flight time. The HT Series motors are designed for extreme tournament pilots, power enthusiasts or heavy/multirotor head setups - and are run by our top competition pilots, such as Kenny Ko (rocking the 4530HT/550kV ) and Kan Poonnoi (flying the 510kV counterpart). Please note that the HT is not a succesor to (or "better" than) the HS, the two motor series simply follow a different aim / balance. Therefor the same kVs can be found in both lines, to match them to your preferences and setup.
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What does 12N10P mean? I need this for setting up my YGE 205 telemetry capabilities
This abbreviation refers to the layout / winding scheme of the motor. The first part (N) translates to the number of arms (wire wound poles) on the stator, whereas the second part shows the number of magnets (permanent magnetic poles) on the rotor. So a 12N10P motor features a stator with 12 arms and 10 poles (magnets). Usually the number required for the esc is the second part.
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Can you do a custom wind / motor with special kV for me? What are the costs?

Thank you very much for considering us for your project. As all our motors are hand wound, it is fairly easy for us to fulfill your special kV requirements with a special wind.

Finishing your custom kV motor usually only takes a day, and is offered by us free of charge. Please send us a quick message stating the model (stator size) and kV you are looking for and we'll get back to you in no time.

We're also happy to consult you on your motor choice if you send us a small description of what you're trying to achieve with your setup.

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